Although both players before you have clearly demonstrated their strength, your hand is strong enough to re-raise yet again. You raise, because Ace King before the flop is just a really very strong hand.

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Because of the peculiar conditions in these games, I am going to question some of the traditional strategy advice you will read in books and on other strategy sites. Other strategies out there are technically superior and I make no apology for that. Where I believe this strategy is better for you, is that it acknowledges that we are not all perfect players, that we are prone to tilt when losing, and that many of us have limited bankrolls. So if you fall into that category, my advice is to treat these hands the same as small pocket pairs (see the next section) and limp in, with the sole exception of when they are overcards to the flop. If there are callers and an ace or king hits the board, you pretty much know you are behind – at least it didn’t cost you much to find out. Otherwise you have a good chance of being ahead. Having said that, I still don’t like big pots here, and if you don’t raise you let everyone else draw against you. I tend to put in a medium raise for information purposes but remain prepared to fold to aggression. In Razz, the highest up card on third street has to make the forced bring in bet. This starts the action. On all subsequent rounds, the lowest hand showing acts first. If there is a tie for low hand showing, the first active player clockwise from the dealer begins the round's action. Another difference is the fact that if a player pairs his door card, there is no double bet option like there would be in standard 7 card stud. Change gears and begin to play a “raise or fold” strategy that will help you survive to the final few tables where “in the money” means a significant portion of the prize pool. Again, the reader will find a very clear and concise explanation of how to change styles, proper hand selection and how to play those hands on the flop and beyond.